Lab Report - Rouge

INTRODUCTION

Rouge is a cosmetics used to apply color to the cheeks. Modern rouge reparations come in the forms of liquid, cream and dry solid forms.

OBJECTIVES (POWDER ROUGE)

1. To formulate dry powder rouge and cream rouge.
2. To formulate cream rouge from 2 commercial hard lipstick preparations.
3. To study the factor affecting color shading in powder and cream
4. To evaluate the effect of storage condition on the final product

MATERIALS

Basic powder formulations
Kaolin	16%
Talc	48%
Magnesium stearate	6%
Zinc oxide	5%
Rice starch	10%
Magnesium Carbonate	5%
Colorant (Red101)	4%
Titanium diaoxide q.s ad	100%

PROCEDURES

                                I.            Powder rouge

a)      60g of the basic powder formulation without colouring agent is prepared

b)      Another 60g of powder rouge is prepared containing 4% of an Insoluble red colouring agent (P4)

c)      The 3^rd 60g powder rouge is prepared by diluting the colouring agent up to 3%

d)       Step a) is repeated by using  2 different amount of colouring agents: (2% and 1%)

Code	Colorant (%)	Amount of P4 (g)	Amount of P0	Total amount of rouge (g)
P1	4	20	-	20
P2	3	15	5	20
P3	2	10	10	20
P4	1	5	15	20

RESULTS

1.      Powder rouge in the dark

Code	Colour separation	Change in colour	Flow properties
P1	No	No	Good
P2	No	No	Good
P3	No	No	Good
P4	No	No	Good

2.      Powder rouge when exposed to sunlight

Code	Colour separation	Change in colour	Flow properties
P1	No	No	Good
P2	No	No	Good
P3	No	No	Good
P4	No	No	Good

3.      Powder rouge when test on cheek

Code	Duration of application	Result
P1	6 hours	No irritation, smooth
P2	6 hours	No irritation, smooth
P3	6 hours	No irritation, smooth
P4	6 hours	No irritation, smooth

4.      Chart of colour shading of powder rouges

DISCUSSION

          According to the Food and Drug Administration, colour additive as defined by the regulation is any dye, pigment or other substance that can impart colour to a food, drug, cosmetic or to the human body. Colour additive is an important component of many products, making them attractive, appealing, appetizing and informative. 

          Dyes can be water soluble or oil soluble. Thus, solubility of dyes in powder or cream rouge is important to give the colour effect. Water soluble dye gives crisp, transparent colour and light, clean tints to the opaque products. Oil soluble dye gives a more uniform and even colour compared to water soluble dyes, especially if it is used in producing cream rouge.

          From the chart of colour shading from the result, the concentration of the colourant is the one which will determine the colour shadings of powder rouges. This is because when the greater amount of P4 is added in the formulation, the darker the shadings of powder rouge will be. P4 is the formulation that has been added 4% of colourant of the total weight of formulation meanwhile P0 is the formulation that has no colourant.

          Four same amounts (20g) of powder rouges are formed by mixing different amount of P4 and P0 respectively. The powder rouges are labeled as P1, P2, P3 and P4. P1 has 4% of colourant (20g of P4), P2 has 3% of colourant (15g of P4 mix with 5g of P0), P3 has 2% of colourant (10g of P4 mix with 10g of P0) and P4 has 1% of colourant (5g of P4 mix with 15g P0).

          Powder rouge is the most commonly used and preferred nowadays, though in compressed one, compared to cream rouge. There are some differences between powder rouge and cream rouge. Powder rouge is suitable for those with oily or combination skin because powder rouge is able to absorb grease for a matte finish. Meanwhile, the individual with a dry skin needs to opt for cream rouge, which is more emollient in order to minimize flaking. Powder rouge will give a more finished look and this is perfect for contouring cheekbones. Cream rouge will give a dewy and outdoorsy flush. Another great benefit of powder rouge is it can be used as eye shadow as well and it can last for a day, while cream rouge can be used as lipstick due to its creamy texture and it gives a soft, long-lasting glow, youthful appearance.

          The ingredients in the powder rouge formulation are kaolin, talc, magnesium stearate, zinc oxide, rice starch, magnesium carbonate, colourant and titanium dioxide. Kaolin is a natural clay-like mineral and composed of silica, iron, magnesium, calcium, sodium, zinc and other minerals. It is a white insoluble powder which has excellent absorbent properties which is used to draw out impurities and toxins. It is also an anticaking agent which will helps in preventing the powder from caking and clumping. Rice starch has the same absorbent properties as kaolin. Talc is as a lubricant, mattes and hues the skin. It has an antibacterial effect, hence preventing skin impurities. Magnesium stearate as a glidant, which is a substance that helps improving the flowability of powders, in the powder rouge formulation. Zinc oxide acts as a bulking agent and permits it to cover the skin more thoroughly. Titanium dioxide imparts whiteness to coloured cosmetics and personal care products that are applied to the skin (including the eye area), nails and lips. It helps to increase the opacity and reduce the transparency of a product formulation. It also absorbs, reflects and scatters light (including ultraviolet radiation), which can protect the product from deterioration.

          To test the stability of products, the powder rouges have been stored in different conditions, which are exposed to sunlight and in dark. The criteria that has been look for are the colour separation, change in colour and flow properties, to know is there any differences before and after the way to store the powder rouge. After one month, as stated in the result, there are no differences in colour separation, colour change and flow properties, which mean that the storage of the powder rouges either exposed to light or in dark does not results any effect. There is no colour separation because the preparation of the rouge does not involve any liquid substances, it was prepared in a completely dry condition from the weighing, mixing as well as packaging. In addition, the formulation contains titanium dioxide which absorbs, reflects and scatters light (including ultraviolet radiation) as mention above. So, the product is protected from deterioration. Besides, magnesium stearate which is a good glidant is also incorporated in the formulation. Hence, the powder still has good flow properties even after a month of storage.

          However, it was only tested for one month, thus some precautions still need to be done like avoid exposing it to direct sunlight to make sure that the product will not be undergo any chemical or physical changes throughout the usage before the expiring date.

CONCLUSION

          Four powder rouges have been formulated by modifying the concentration of the colorant and are labeled as P1, P2, P3 and P4. The concentration of colourant is the one which will determine the colour shadings of powder rouges. The greater the concentration of the colorant, the darker the colour shadings of the rouge will be. Meanwhile, the storage conditions are very important towards the product stability. Exposure to sunlight may cause separation of colorant, bad flow properties and change in colour. However, throughout this experiment, the storage conditions do not affect the stability of the powder rouges.

REFERENCES

1.      Anon. 2017. Rouge (cosmetics).
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rouge_%28cosmetics%29

2.      Julie, N. B., Arthur, L. L. & Catherine, J. B. 2003. Color Additives: FDA's Regulatory Process and Historical Perspectives.
http://www.fda.gov/ForIndustry/ColorAdditives/RegulatoryProcessHistoricalPerspectives

3.      Gio. 2015. Cream VS Powder Blush: Which is better?.
http://www.beautifulwithbrains.com/better-cream-powder-blush

4.      Anon. 2002. Better Blush How-tos.
http://www.cosmopolitan.com/style-beauty/beauty/how-to/a107/better-blush-how-tos