Cosmeceutical Lab Report - lipstick

Introduction

Lipsticks is a cosmetic product that exist in different types and colours. As with most types of makeup, lipstick is typically worn by women. Some lipsticks are in the form of lip balms, to add colour and provide hydration. Lipstick formulations are most widely used to enhance the beauty of lips and to add glamour touch to the makeup. Lipstick provide a convenient means of either freshening a makeup by colouring or protection of lips from the effects of cold, dry weather, UV light and wind.

 Lipstick contains wax, oils, antioxidants and emollients. Wax provides the structure to the solid lipstick. Lipsticks may be made from several waxes such as beeswax, ozokerite and candelilla wax. Due to its high melting point, Carnauba wax is a key ingredient in terms of strengthening the lipstick. Various oils and fats are also used in lipsticks, such as olive oil, mineral oil, cocoa butter, lanolin, and petrolatum.

In the early period, lipsticks of limited colours were produced such as red. But now, there are lipsticks of various colours such as pink, orange, violet and even black. Some lipstick contain something called "pearl essence". This silvery substance can be found in fish scales. It is primarily sourced from herring and can be found in many lipsticks, nail polishes and other cosmetic products due to the shimmer effect it creates.

Objective

The objectives of this experiment are to ensure that the students able to:

1.      Differentiate the different function of the ingredient in each formula.

2.      Understand the rational and function of the different type of formulation of the lipstick.

3.      Evaluate the equality of the product.

Apparatus

1.      Evaporating dish

2.      Water bath

3.      Electronic balance

4.      Weighing boat

5.      Glass rod

6.      Thermometer

7.      Measuring cylinder

Materials

1.      Castor oil

2.      D&C red pigments

3.      Mica pigments

4.      White beeswax

5.      Cocoa butter

6.      Vitamin E acetate

7.      Vaseline

8.      Honey

9.      Paraben (0.1% methyl paraben solution)

Methodology

1. There are four different lipstick formulations prepared by varying amount of Phase A, the colour of the lipsticks.

2. Firstly, 15mL of Castor oil was measured and put into evaporating dish on water bath. 0.5g of D&C red pigments and 0.5g Mica pigments were then added accordingly. The mixture of colour dispersion was stirred until homogenous. Temperature was checked regularly to prevent overheating. (Phase A)

3.. Meanwhile, solid of 1.7g White beeswax was melted on the water bath together with Vaseline. The mixture was stirred until there was no presence of solid particle. Cocoa butter, vitamin E acetate, honey and drops of paraben were added and the mixture was continuously stirred. (Phase B&C).

4. Finally, the two mixtures were removed from heat. Colour dispersion was added into the mixture of ingredients and stirred gently until the final product was achieved. 

5. The final product was then poured into a mould and let cool before being sealed.

6. For the other three lipstick preparations, some changes in the quantities of the ingredients were made:

Lipstick 2: 0.4g D&C red pigment and 0.6g Mica pigments were used.

Lipstick 3: 0.3g D&C red pigment and 0.7g Mica pigments were used.

Lipstick 4: 0.1g D&C red pigment and 0.9g Mica pigments were used.

RESULT

Chart of colour shading of all formulations

   


formulation 1



formulation 2

 formulation 3       



formulation 4

Formulation 1

Phase A	Phase B	Phase C
15mL Castor oil	1.7g White beeswax	3 drops Paraben (0.1% methyl paraben solutions)
0.5g D&C red pigment	1.0g Cocoa butter
0.5g Mica pigments	1.3ml Vitamin E Acetate
	0.5g Vaseline
	0.6ml Honey (for taste)

Formulation 2

Phase A	Phase B	Phase C
15mL Castor oil	1.7g White beeswax	3 drops Paraben (0.1% methyl paraben solutions)
0.4g D&C red pigment	1.0g Cocoa butter
0.6g Mica pigments	1.3ml Vitamin E Acetate
	0.5g Vaseline
	0.6ml Honey (for taste)

Formulation 3

Phase A	Phase B	Phase C
15mL Castor oil	1.7g White beeswax	3 drops Paraben (0.1% methyl paraben solutions)
0.3g D&C red pigment	1.0g Cocoa butter
0.7g Mica pigments	1.3ml Vitamin E Acetate
	0.5g Vaseline
	0.6ml Honey (for taste)

Formulation 4

Phase A	Phase B	Phase C
15mL Castor oil	1.7g White beeswax	3 drops Paraben (0.1% methyl paraben solutions)
0.1g D&C red pigment	1.0g Cocoa butter
0.9g Mica pigments	1.3ml Vitamin E Acetate
	0.5g Vaseline
	0.6ml Honey (for taste)

Evaluation of lipsticks

1.      Melting point test

This test is done by placing a small quantity of lipstick of the four lipstick formulation (1,2,3 and 4) into an evaporating dish. Then, the lipstick is then heated on a water bath for even heating. The time taken at which the lipstick started to melt was recorded.

Observation: The product melts.

Tests	Formulation  1	Formulation 2	Formulation 3	Formulation 4
Melting point test (time taken to melt at constant temperature of 600C) / minutes	2 min 8 sec	2 min 2 sec	2 min 7 sec	2 min 7 sec

2.      Stability test

Condition (texture) of lipstick when put under different temperature (°c)

LIPSTICK FORMULATION	AT 4°C	AT 28°C	AT 40°C
1	Hardened	Soft semi solid, normal	Starts to melt, become oily and sticky
2	Hardened	Soft semi solid, normal	Starts to melt, become oily and sticky
3	Hardened	Soft semi-solid, normal	Starts to melt, become oily and sticky
4	Hardened	Soft semi-solid, normal	Starts to melt, become oily and sticky

DISCUSSION

In this experiment, we prepared four different formulations and shades of lipstick. Each formulation has three phases which are Phase A, Phase B and Phase C. Phase A is the preparation of colour dispersion while Phase B is the preparation of wax base which involves the blending of oils and Phase C involves the adding few drops of methyl paraben solutions. Paraben is used as a preservative is most cosmetic products to prevent bacterial growth.

For this formulation, we have decided to not do any changes on phase B and C. This is because any unsuitable alteration to them may lead to hardness or the lipstick becomes too soft. We only varied the amount of ingredients in Phase A to produce 4 different shade of lipstick.

To ensure the lipsticks are of good quality, several tests were applied on the lipsticks which are melting points test, and stability test at 4°C, 20-25°C and 30-40°C. For the melting point test, we took half of the lipsticks from each container and put into the porcelain glass and heat it at 60°C. The time taken when the lipstick started to melt was recorded.

For stability test, we recorded the observation after placing the lipsticks under several conditions. At normal room temperature which is 20-25°C, all of our lipsticks are in normal state. There were no changes on the lipsticks and the colour remains the same. At 4°C, all our lipsticks were placed in a beaker containing ice and the result was obtained where all the lipsticks remain unchanged and harden with the appearance of water droplets. For the stability of lipsticks at 30-40°C, the lipsticks were left under the hot sun. As the result, all the lipsticks start to melt. They also became oily and sticky.

There were also some errors we had done while preparing the lipstick formulations. The first one, was, while conducting the preparation of all the lipstick formulations and stability tests, parallax errors might be done, contributed to the inaccuracy of the results. Besides, we could not fix the temperature of the water bath. Therefore, it was difficult for us to constant the temperature at 60 ºC

These are the ingredients that have been used in our lipstick formulations: castor oil, D&C red pigments, Mica pigments, white beeswax, cocoa butter, Vitamin E acetate, Vaseline, Honey which was used as flavouring, and Parabens. Each of them has their own function to produce a good lipsticks product.

Ingredients	Functions
Castor oil	It is a good emulsifier and emollient that can maintains its structure at extremely low and extremely high temperatures, thus can maintain the smooth consistency of the lipsticks at variety climate conditions. Castor oil also has excellent pigment-dispersing properties, due to its polarity, explaining all the pigments dispersed well in the formulations.
Mica pigments, D&C red pigments	Mica pigment: A silvery, amber coloured mineral to provide shimmer and shine. D&C red pigments: A red colour
White beeswax	As the lipsticks require creamy consistency, white beeswax is used to keep the emulsion from separating into its liquid-oil components. Solid and stick-like products like lipsticks require beeswax to also increase the thickness of lipid portion for the structure and smooth application.
Cocoa butter	Used as emollients
Vitamin E acetate	As anti-oxidants Protects against UV from sunlight and improves the levels of hydration in the lips.
Vaseline	For shiny properties
Parabens	As preservatives

CONCLUSION

At the end of the practical, our group members have gained more knowledge on lipstick preparation through this experiment. We were able to differentiate the different functions of each ingredient in the formula and evaluate the quality of our products.

 In order to prepare the lipsticks, we have performed the required procedures correctly to obtain a quality product. The average time for the lipstick to melt at 60ºC was 2 minutes 1 second. The lipsticks appeared to be in liquid form at 40ºC and above, stabled at room temperature and hardened at 4ºC. Based on the chart of colour shading, we can conclude that different amount of pigment gives different shade to the lipstick.

REFERENCES

1. Mishra, P., &Dwivedi, S. 2012. Formulation and Evaluation of Lipstick Containing Herbal Ingredients. Asian J. Med. Pharm. Res, 2(3), 58-60.
2. Formulation and Evaluation of Natural Lipstick from Coloured Pigments of Beta Vulgaris Taproot. 2014. SwethaKruthika V^*, S Sai Ram, ShaikAzhar Ahmed, ShaikSadiq, Sraddha Deb Mallick, and T RamyaSree.Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences.